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Hollins Farm Cottage is a
registered mixed stock smallholding run as a viable rural
business. Our predominant interest is breeding Kune Kune and
Oxford Sandy and Black Pigs.
The Farndale herd of Kune Kune
pigs was started in 2005 as a diversification project. We keep a
number of sows and our own boar and aim to breed 2 litters a year
from each pig. We have since added Oxfords to our herd in order
to boost traditional meat production.
Oxford Sandy and Blacks are
one of the oldest traditional breeds, a hairy ginger pig with
random black spots or blotches they are docile and hardy. The
finished meat is not as fatty as other breeds making an excellent
finished food product.
Why Kune Kunes?
Simply speaking, Kune Kunes
are easy to manage. They are a friendly docile animal and don't
require the same facilities needed for larger pigs.
- The Pig that
don’t dig?
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All pigs dig.
However, Kune Kune’s seem to do less damage than most,
some are not avid diggers at all. Pigs lightly stocked on a wide
area will have plenty of food available and will therefore have
less of an impact on the land. Rings can but not always prevent
digging.
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Shelter
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Pigs are hardy but
do like a shelter that does not have a through draft. A pile of
straw will provide a nest into which they will burrow. Shelters
can be bought, made or simply constructed from several hay bales
with a tin roof.
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Food
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Not all pigs have
the same dietary requirements; any pig will eat as much as you
care to feed it, but that does not make for a healthy animal.
Kune Kune’s can live exclusively on a diet of grass if you
have enough of it; however for most people, bags of (reduced
protein) pot bellied pig food should satisfy the animals needs.
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Wheat also carries
a sufficient protein ration but does not contain all of the
necessary vitamins and minerals that your pig needs. Commercial
pig food is fine if fed in moderation with good quality barley
straw or hay as roughage.
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IF KUNE KUNE
PIGLETS ARE FED ON EXCESSIVE HIGH PROTEIN PIG FOOD (wet mash is
the worst) THEY WILL EXCEED THE STANDARD FINISHED SIZE OF THE
BREED. They also seem to become precocious!
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What we are trying
to aim for is a steady growth rate through the pigs infant life
until it is mature (8-12 months).
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If the belly of
your pig is looking fat, adjust its diet accordingly by reducing
its protein intake.
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IT IS ILLEGAL TO
FEED PIGS SWILL OR FOOD MATTER THAT HAS BEEN PROCESSED OR PASSED
THROUGH A KITCHEN.
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In essence,
vegetable matter from the garden is fine, peelings from the
kitchen are not.
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As with all
animals, pigs need access to clean water.
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Health
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Areas where there
is a high stock turnover or there are large commercial pig herds
are generally more prone to diseases. Some diseases can remain
in the soil for many years. If in doubt call the vet. Here
follows a summary of basic but important information.
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Erysipelas - A pig
killer. Pigs can be vaccinated against it. Manifests itself as a
raised (purplish) diamond pattern on their backs - call the Vet
quick.
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Foot and mouth
disease - Fever depression and severe lameness, blistering of
the feet. This disease is transferable between other species.
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Lice, mange, mites
- can be treated with dust on powders bought from an
agricultural store.
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Worms - If animals
are kept on the same piece of land without rotation, they will
build up a burden of parasitic worms within their gut. Pigs that
are on smaller un-rotated paddocks therefore need periodic
worming, wormers are available in powder or injectable form.
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Fencing
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Pigs need adequate
fencing if you are to remain popular with neighbours. They are
very strong and can lift heavy weights if they can get their
snout under it. Electric fencing is great and can be moved
about. Pig netting is fine but plenty of posts are needed or
else they will dig under it.
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Other Info:
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Some people want to
keep a pig indoors. They do like to leave their toilet
depositories in one place but the author is not convinced of
swapping canine for porcine indoor companions.
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